Hayward AquaRite Salt Chlorinators AquaRite Bilingual - Page 16

Troubleshooting

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Polaris - Attach wires to proper screw terminals as shown below. Note that screw terminal "1" is marked on the Polaris PCB. Troubleshooting Visit www.hayward.com for helpful information on operation, maintenance and troubleshooting your AquaRite Electronic Chlorine Generator. Diagnostic Displays Sequential pushes of the small "diagnostic" button next to the LCD display will cause the AquaRite to display the following information: 1. Pool temperature (xx degrees Fahrenheit or Celsius) 2. Cell voltage (xx.x volts) 3. Cell current (x.xx amps) 4. Desired Output % ("0P" -- "100P" depending on knob position or input from remote pool automa- tion controller) 5. Instant salinity ( -xxxx ppm or -x.xx grams/Liter) 6. Product name sent to the pool automation control display ("AL-0" which signifies "AquaRite") 7. Software revision level (r1.xx) 8. Chlorinator cell type (t-3, t-5, t-9, t-15) On the 9th push of the button the display will revert back to the default salt display. Also, if the button is not pushed for 30 seconds, the display will revert back to the standard salt display. Common Problems and Solutions 1. "Power" LED not on Check to make sure either 120VAC or 240VAC input power is connected to the proper screw termi- nals at the AquaRite control. Verify input voltage with a voltmeter. If there is input power, the fuse may have blown. The AquaRite is protected by a 20 amp mini ATO fuse located on the circuit board above the cell connector. 2. "Generating" LED flashing The temperature of the pool water is too high or low to operate. You can override this by switching the main switch to SUPER CHLORINATE. The AquaRite will run at maximum output for the remainder of the current pump cycle or 24 hours, whichever comes first. 3. "No Flow" LED illuminated The AquaRite has sensed a no flow condition and has stopped generating chlorine. Check that the flow switch is plugged into the connector on the bottom of the control unit and that the wire is not cut or damaged. Make sure you have at least 12" of straight pipe before the flow switch. If there 15 USE ONLY HAYWARD GENUINE REPLACEMENT PARTS

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Polaris - Attach wires to proper screw terminals as shown below. Note that screw terminal "1" is
marked on the Polaris PCB.
Troubleshooting
Visit www.hayward.com for helpful information on operation, maintenance and troubleshooting your
AquaRite Electronic Chlorine Generator.
Diagnostic Displays
Sequential pushes of the small "diagnostic" button next to the LCD display will cause the AquaRite
to display the following information:
1.
Pool temperature (xx degrees Fahrenheit or Celsius)
2.
Cell voltage (xx.x volts)
3.
Cell current (x.xx amps)
4.
Desired Output % ("0P" -- "100P" depending on knob position or input from remote pool automa-
tion controller)
5. Instant salinity ( -xxxx ppm or -x.xx grams/Liter)
6.
Product name sent to the pool automation control display ("AL-0" which signifies "AquaRite")
7.
Software revision level (r1.xx)
8. Chlorinator cell type (t-3, t-5, t-9, t-15)
On the 9th push of the button the display will revert back to the default salt display.
Also, if the button
is not pushed for 30 seconds, the display will revert back to the standard salt display.
Common Problems and Solutions
1.
"Power" LED not on
Check to make sure either 120VAC or 240VAC input power is connected to the proper screw termi-
nals at the AquaRite control.
Verify input voltage with a voltmeter.
If there is input power, the fuse
may have blown.
The AquaRite is protected by a 20 amp mini ATO fuse located on the circuit board
above the cell connector.
2.
"Generating" LED flashing
The temperature of the pool water is too high or low to operate.
You can override this by switching
the main switch to SUPER CHLORINATE.
The AquaRite will run at maximum output for the remainder
of the current pump cycle or 24 hours, whichever comes first.
3.
"No Flow" LED illuminated
The AquaRite has sensed a no flow condition and has stopped generating chlorine.
Check that the
flow switch is plugged into the connector on the bottom of the control unit and that the wire is not
cut or damaged.
Make sure you have at least 12" of straight pipe before the flow switch.
If there
15
USE ONLY HAYWARD GENUINE REPLACEMENT PARTS